Posts Tagged ‘Brian Kemmerle’

New Year, New Wine Choices at Bentley’s Grill

Monday, January 4th, 2010

Oregon Wine Bentley’s Grill Wine Steward Brian Kemmerle spent much of 2009 researching and tasting some the best wines in the region.  He is an active local wine connoisseur- this year he reprised his role as Judge for the 2009 Oregon State Fair Professional Wine Competition where he evaluated over 200 local wines. In addition, he participated in the 2009 Oregon Pinot Camp, an industry only event hosted by 50 of the top wineries in Oregon.  He brings his vast knowledge and passion for wine to Bentley’s Grill guests and hopes you will enjoy his new “by the glass” menu:

Wine Notes From Bently’s Grill Wine Steward: Announcing the New “By-the-Glass” Menu

With forty wines to choose from and a combination of vintage changes, out of stocks and seasonal preferences the “by-the-glass” menu starts to look a little tired about five or six times a year. This revision features some subtle and drastic changes to the selection.

First, what’s gone and why:

Lemelson’s 2008 “Tikka’s Run” Pinot Gris – already sold out. One of Oregon’s best Pinot Gris each year and becoming harder to get because of it.

Moet “White Star” is now Moet “Brut Imperial”. Moet has finally depleted the special American cuvee “White Star” and will now be shipping to us what they ship to the rest of the world the “Brut Imperial”. Merci!

In the “so many good wines and not enough time” category the Adelsheim Pinot Blanc and the L’Ecole Semillon have been exchanged for two new exciting wines.

The Erath Oregon Pinot Noir and the Witness Tree “Chainsaw Vineyard” Pinot Noir have been “dueling” for a couple of months now and the winner, by a substantial margin” is still on the list.

As good as the Boedecker 2006 “Athena” Pinot Noir was, it did not command enough commercial success on the menu as it did as the “Featured Pinot Noir”. It will remain on the bottle list and may return at a later date as the “FPN”.

Fortunately some of you got to try the Waterbrook 2006 Reserve Cabernet. It made a nationally publicized wine magazines “Top 100 wines of the year” list and promptly sold out. The replacement is not too shabby either.
At 188 cases of total production it was no surprise to me that the Three Angels Avery Vineyard Zinfandel had sold out. We had already seen the 188 cases of the Les Collines Vineyard come and go away. The last couple of bottles will be available on the main wine list.

Onto the new!
The ultra-rich Four Graces Pinot Blanc replaces the crisp and lively Adelsheim. The winery writes:
White peach, honey and butterscotch combine on the nose with lightly toasted hazelnuts. An invitingly fresh zest of lime flavor is followed by Asian pear, jicama and grapefruit. This is a full bodied wine with a long finish.

Also new to the list is a newcomer to the local wine scene J. Scott Cellars, a boutique winery, out of Eugene, Oregon. The 2008 Viognier was made from purchased Rogue Valley fruit and has lovely floral aromatics and a touch of residual sugar to balance out the nice acidity. I’ll look to match this wine with the Chefs many forays into Asian cuisine.

To prove that good wine doesn’t have to cost a lot of money I have added the 2008 Jovino Pinot Gris to the menu. At $6.00 a glass it delivers plenty of Oregon Pinot Gris goodness for very little cash. This wine should be very popular with the “Happy Hour” crowd.

Cherry Hill winery has finally released their 2006 “Estate” Pinot Noir. It met with rousing success as the “Featured Pinot Noir” and hopefully that success with continue now that you can have it anytime you want. This wine, in combination with St. Innocent, Witness Tree, Willamette Valley Vineyards, Mystic and Bethel Heights means that you can now support six local, Salem area, wineries with your wine buying dollars.

Usually when a wine changes vintage I remove it from the menu however in this case the Seven Hills 2007 Merlot is just as good as the 2006. So it stays. Enjoy.

The replacement for the Waterbrook ended up being the 2006 Kestrel Cabernet Sauvignon. Kestrel Vintners have a vast and somewhat confusing selection of wines and they are usually a couple of nickels more expensive that their nearest competition however this wine stood out during my weekly tastings. Pretty black fruits, floral notes and a bit of structure to this wine will appeal to classic Cabernet drinkers and match well with our various steaks.

Apparently I was on a bit of a Northwest Italian varietal kick lately. I re-tasted a new vintage of Nebbiolo. Scored a Sangiovese blend at a unbelievable price and added two Barbera to the menu. To pour by the glass I picked the 2006 Waving Tree Barbera out of Washington has striking dried black cherry notes and a lift of acidity to match nicely with the chefs new Pork Tenderloin special and mushroom ravioli dish with braised boar ragout.

The last item on the menu is a returning special. The 2006 Andrew Rich Coup d’Etat is a Rhone-style blend with Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah and usually a touch of Counoise. I poured the 2005 until it ran out and when I tasted this 2006 it was a bit rough around the edges. Well, today is has softened up nicely and should pair nicely with Lamb dishes and other richly flavored red meat entrees, especially ones cooked on the grill with a bit of char on them.

Cheers!

Brian Kemmerle’s Tips for Matching Wine with Traditional Game Dishes

Thursday, October 15th, 2009
Bentley's Grill

Bentley's Grill

Now that Fall is here, game dishes are in season and featured on the Bentley’s Grill Menu.  Wine Steward Brian Kemmerle shares his expertise and exceptional taste to help our guests select the perfect wine with their meals and for any occasion.   He recently posted helpful tips on the Bentley’s Grill site to help match the best wines to go with some of our favorite game dishes prepared by Chef Derek Ridgway.

Brian’s Tips for Matching Wine with Game

Dish: Smoked Duck Salad
Brian Recommends: An off dry white wine like a northwest Riesling or Gewurztraminer.

Dish: Roasted Quail
Brain Recommends: Both off dry whites mentioned above,  or a super-ripe fruity red like Zinfandel or our northwest Sangioveseif you’re feeling “edgy”.

Dish: Buffalo Steak
Brian Recommends: Try this with “Claret”, a northwest version of a classic French Bordeaux, with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The ripe fruit and softer tannins of the wine matched well with the leaner cut of meat and the assertive flavor of the blue cheese butter.

Dish: Duck “Cakes” (imagine a crab cake made instead with duck)
Brian Recommends: A rich, flavorful Chardonnay is an easy choice however if your feeling brave try it with a northwest Semillon. It’s a grape more commonly found in France and Australia but a few producers in Washington give it a go and the better ones are rich, floral and have almost an oily texture.

Bentley’s Grill Wine Steward Shares His Thoughts About Bergstrom Wines

Monday, October 5th, 2009
Brian Shares His Expertise and Insight

Brian Shares His Expertise and Insight

I had the opportunity to sit down with Emily, the Regional Sales Manager from Bergstrom Wines recently.  Bergstrom has chosen to return to the “self-distributed” sales model in Oregon and has dropped their local wholesaler. This was my first meeting with Emily and she spared no expense in bringing lovely and tasty wines for me to try.

I prefer to taste white wines with residual sugar last, even after big hearty red wines, so we left the usually tasty Dr. Bergstrom Riesling for last and started with the 2007 Sigrid Chardonnay

The 2007 Sigrid Chardonnay, inspired by the great whites of Burgundy, is Josh’s attempt to create, in his words, “the greatest Oregon Chardonnay” is, in my opinion, a noble attempt. Lovely lemony and tropical fruit aromas touched with hazelnuts. It has excellent texture in the mouth with a moderate amount of acidity to lift the palate and refresh for another sip of wine or a bite of food. No expense was spared in the creation of this wine and that fact is reflected in the price. It is delicious none the less.

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Now, on to the reds wines.

Winemaker, Vineyard Manager & General Manager Josh Bergström

Winemaker, Vineyard Manager & General Manager Josh Bergström

The 2007 Cumberland is a multi-vineyard blend with the majority of the grapes coming from the excellent Estate, Shea and De Lancellotti vineyard. If you wanted to know what “style” Josh Bergstrom crafts his wines this is the one to try. The wine, a dark ruby red color running to pink at the rim of the glass showed aromas of red cherry, chocolate and sweet spices. 60% new oak contribute to a rich mouth feel and I would imagine some softening of fairly substantial tannins. Still softer than your average Washington Merlot this wine could “suffer” some bottle age or being decanted before drinking. All in all a good introduction to the Bergstrom style.

The single vineyards.

We started with the 2007 Nysa Vineyard. Small, high elevation family owned vineyards in the Dundee Hills planted to the newer Dijon clone Pinot Noir grapes. This wine is all about elegance and texture. Ruby red color, very floral aromas with red fruit flavors. If you’re a fan act quickly to put this one in your cellar for the production is limited to 400 cases. Decanting highly recommended, cellaring for several years will sure to add some additional complexity.

Some would consider the Yamhill-Carlton sub-AVA of the Willamette Valley the single best sub-appellation, even over the Dundee Hills. To make the decision for your self this next wine is an excellent place to start.

The 2007 Bergstrom Shea Vineyard reflects the classic Yamhill-Carlton characteristics of dark, almost violet coloring, ripe dark fruits and forest floor with accents of toasty barrel spice. It had excellent richness on the middle palate finishing with lively acidity and some serious structure. Not very hard tannins so these should resolve nicely, but just enough to warrant a recommendation of careful cellaring.

Always one of my favorite wines from Bergstrom, the 2007 de Lancellotti Vineyard was next on the tasting list. Certified Biodynamic vineyards in the Chehalem Mountains this wine shows more of a ruby-violet color with super-ripe aromas of wild berry fruits with one of the most complex spice profiles to experience in an Oregon Pinot Noir: cinnamon, clove, nutmeg and anise. This wine is said to age beautifully, and this wine should be no different. Now, if it weren’t so hard to resist drinking it right away I might find out for myself. This wine is always a nice match for mesquite charcoal grilled steaks rubbed with garlic and fresh herbs, olive oil sautéed greens and creamy parmesan risotto.

The last Pinot Noir of the tasting was the 2007 Bergstrom Bergstrom Vineyard. Also farmed by the Biodynamic method, this vineyard planted in the Dundee hills during 1999 continues to impress and improve. Unfortunately, the day I tasted this wine; it seemed to be a little flat, brooding maybe. That being said when I first tasted an early sample of the 2006 vintage it was not my favorite either. However after a bit of time in the bottle it became my one of my favorite wines; and the wine of the 2006 vintage, from Bergstrom, that I put on the restaurants wine list.

The last of the Bergstrom wine was the Dr. Bergstrom Riesling. Some say that 2007 will go down in recent history as one of Oregon’s best white wine vintages and this wine does nothing to disprove that claim. This wine has lovely aromas of stone fruits, white peach, nectarine and apricot with some additional floral accents. Nice texture on the middle palate and some winter melon and citrus notes on the finish to balance the moderate sweetness. If you’re a fan of exceptional quality German Rieslings you should not hesitate to gives this wine a try.

Stop by the restaurant anytime for a chat, an appetizer and a glass of wine but the next time you’re having a special occasion, remember we still have a couple bottles of the 2006 Bergstrom Bergstrom Vineyard on the wine list and it’s drinking beautifully. When it is gone, I clearly have several wines to choose from to replace it with on the list. Cheers!